My first bite of the dish known as “Caprese” is a revelation: A basil-scented blancmange forms the heart of the dish, while layers of clarified apple gelee and granita lend a gentle sweetness in place of tomato, all elevated by the drizzle of fresh olive oil and a pinch of fine salt.
At Yama, a restaurant in the Shirokane neighborhood of Tokyo’s Minato Ward, fruits and seasonal ingredients take center stage in a 10-course dessert menu that evolves every other month to reflect the changing seasons — from citrus and cherry blossoms in spring to aged chestnuts and strawberries in winter. This artistry unfolds in an intimate dining room of quiet elegance, where six counter seats overlook a shelf lined with a curated collection of exquisite vintage Baccarat glassware. Each flawless creation is complemented by delicately crafted teas, like cold brewed jasmine tea infused with floral notes of kinmokusei (sweet osmanthus).
Few could have predicted that a dessert-focused establishment would make history, yet Koichi Katsumata, the visionary behind Yama, has achieved just that. In October, Katsumata received Japan’s first Michelin star for an assiette dessert (dessert course) restaurant, redefining the role of dessert in the country’s fine dining scene.